Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : – *
Board : 92
Notes : Can I give myself a min us 1 for performance? I can and I will. There were waves out there it’s just every time I tried to catch one they kind of disappeared from my reach. When I first got out T2 nearly ran me over … I saw the collision coming and yelled … he flashed me the peace sign and glided around me – three perfect waves then arrived …. I missed each one. The third I took off late and had to body board the wave as I watch perfect glass unfurl before me on the left. Got some dribs and drabs … paddling everywhere. After catching a mediocre right by boatdox I stood and watched D2 SUP into a head high right N. of Taco Bell. I got out and walked down the beach and paddled out between TB and the A lot pump house. D2 said “you followed me out here huh?” Guilty as charged. I waited. A right didn’t come. It was a left. Beautiful, glassy , About to pitch hollow but I was perfectly positioned. I rifled down and into the pocket – I raced down a great section… I saw it closing out on me … I couldn’t make it around the section and that was all she wrote. nevertheless a nice ride. Redemption wave.
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=11244.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions