Location : LM
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : It was an onshore windy mess. But not so windy that it was impossible to get the board off the car. 4 people in the water. looked like there were wind swept wedges that stayed open. Another story up close and personal. ocean beach like paddle our. punishingly cold closeouts. Steep wedges rising up real quick. hard to know what was gonna stay open for a ride. I managed a couple of rights – fast and furious. then punished again. then a couple of weird reforms-overall a challenge but glad I did it
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions