Month: January 2019

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/.50
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 94 al
Notes :  it looked flat and empty as I rounded the point. the got into the A lot and it was nearly full! where was everyone. turns out everyone was clustered close to shore at the A lot pump house to “middles”. it was a super high jacked up tide. most waves were closing out real close to shore – but some woul break a little early offering up a big fat face before closing onto shore. i however noticed that there wa right that stayed open right by the start of taco bell- flight path was clear so thats where i went – and waited. i chose well and kept picking off fat bombs that crested right by the taco bell and then offered up a nice jammy right – especially if you milked the wave in the right spots- my last wave was killer
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes :  flattish/not breaking everywhere except up north by volleyballs where it was breaking fastish and hollowish. managed to get into two rights and took off like a rocket ship – managed to stay on and outrace the lip
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 94 al
Notes : it was weak – a little stronger up north- but i did spy a set come in at A lot which convinced me to get in. another set came in when i was in the water but i was too inside. it was a wide breaking crumbler – about three waves in the set – i missed all of them. i waited around again  for the set – got a few weak dribblers. finally i got an outside one but i slipped on the face and kind of body boarded on the wave- then i got up and  the wave reformed – a somewhat nice right section opened up that i took all the way to taco bell – got out on that
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : crmbly little things in front of the A lot. they would fold over quick – almost a closeout but then -if you held on- would kind of keep rolling and barely do a meek little reform that then got you another ride – they were challenging but fun kind of…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes :  some nice clean crumbly rights at taco bell. first half hour was pretty decent – then conditions started to deteriorate. like yesterday my last wave was a crumbly meandering right- a drippy crotchety puxzzle piece knee slapper that deposited me in the middle of ROCK GARDEN- hell trying to get out
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : Folk now calling  the creek -Panda’s. or as i pronounce it in a slow kaaaa-leeeee-foooooooo-rrrrrrrniaaaa drawl PIIII-AAAAAAAANNNNNNDUZZZZZ. GOT ONE NICE CRUMBLY right that took me from taco bell straight into the creeks ROCK GARDEN…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 94 al
Notes :  wasn’t half bad. refrained from going up north – stayed at Middles and drifted towards Taco Bell – a few rides were had -pouffy little dribblers that you could puzzle piece across…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 al
Notes : wow – pretty nice in front of Taco Bell. very high tide but fat cleanish lumps breaking/crumbling. had obe bit of a monster a right – took off late then was trying to make my way around a big section of whitewater – i could feel it bearing down on me – in front of me was a clean open sectioned paradise – but i couldn’t make it- the whitewater caught up with me and essentially swallowed me. last wave was a weaving meandering fat right –
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