Location : RI
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 josh farber
Notes : Met Gina and Ellen outside the ocean mist in matunuck. There was swell. it was the long paddle out – to the deep hole. Hit various peaks – trying to angle for the outside bomb. I got a few. Had one steep drop where I maneuvered between a a father and son – a risky move. Got to hear a rhode islander scream at some paddling for a wave “GO HAAAD”. A paddleboarder almost ran me over and i had to dive off the board- which he ran over dinging the rail. Long session with lots of paddling. We joked by the side of the road as we loaded the boards onto the car – -Gina and Ellen chatting with the locals – the road was buzzing because there was swell – and it was sunny – and it was summer. Drove back down that afternoon to NY with Mom through not a little traffic…
EDIT: the board was 96 not 94 and the Spot we surfed on Friday in Rhode Island is called “Mary’s Bar.” or just “in front of Ocean Mist.” (Deep Hole is actually to the left of the parking lot where I’ve never paddled out.) Well, At least I got the RI part right…
Stats/Video :