Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : 94 AL
Notes : surfed steep strong clean offshore waves in front of taco bell really really well- maybe because i got the AL board back from the shop? probably because i saw the freaky psych surf film last night morning of the earth – 1972 dawn of the shortboard – still surfing leashless – more blond hair afro’s than you could shake a stick at – trip soundtrack- i got left that just STAYED OPEN ON AND ON it felt like everyone at linda saw that wave- 1 hour later someone said “man that wave was good you got earlier”
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions