Month: June 2019

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : overcast mush burgers again. but for the first hour I surfed very well and made some lines – with TC and Julius
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.50
Rating : ***
Performance : ****+
Board : 94
Notes : Holy Kow! It was overcast – a little onshore-y , a little choppy – close to shore mush burgers. However I surfed really really well. I felt very strong in the water for some reason. everything I paddled for I got. It was all LEFT go Right and then up ASAP- my pop up was quick and clean – my wave selection was very good. rubbishy waves but surfing well made it a great sesh. Hope I surf half as well as to day at the kapuna…
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : started at boat dox then moved on over to grab the right at the creek – not bad – clear and clean and windless
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : 1.50
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : From LMB it was pretty good with T C. we got wave after wave. Then I moved over to the right again and got a nice right with a little juice
Stats/Video :

B

Location : B
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : We spiraled down to Bolinas. It was weak and soft but something was coming in once and a while way way outside. Video to prove it…
Stats/Video :https://vimeo.com/344014707

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : on the sets -it was big. I sat just N. of boat dox proper waiting for the BIG SET SLABS to roll in. I surfed exceptionally well – great positioning – caught wave after wave. a paddle border caught a monster just as I was paddling out – christ I thought he was gonna hit me- I swarmed over the cresting lip as he barreled down – It was scary. more people came in  and they were sitting right in the impact zone for the set waves. I got out more because I felt it there were too many people to avoid in the impact zone. thrilling sesh…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clear clean and windless again. Bigger. While paddling out to my spot at the dox I scratched over some very nicely groomed RIGHTS  that were coming in at the creek aka “PIANDA’S”. I briefly considered changing my plan but held course for the dox. Not that long of a wait when a perfect head high slab of glass dropped into my lap. Paddling back out towards dox again RI screamed at me “yo fuck dox… ya gotta do this right ots way more consistent and has some power”. I took him up on the offer and he was right. My first wave was a sloping amgled take off and i held tight to the top of the wave. Then however i tried to get further up on the nose and i stumbled and went head over heels over the front of the board. Such a shame because there was beauvoup fave real estate in front of me. A couple of more of those rights – a great sesh
Stats/Video :