Location : B
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Overcast and cloudy- not big and clean as predicted. Small waves dead set in front of the beach entrance. never saw waves break there before. (the patch was soft and the groin was also dodgy.) i paddled over to the groin after a while and got one sharp crisp fast wave – the rest of the time was frustrating. i came back to the front of the beach entrance and decide to go in without a leash because it was such close shore break. got to very killer waves right away waist high long rides inches from the beach-liberating to surf without a leash – so it felt
Stats/Video : the button done broke…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions