Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : from 645 to 745 am it was clean big outside glassy bombs. got a number of them. surfed with grace and elegance. and flamboyantly. using my hands a lot more on cut backs – grand over the top gestures like a philharmonic director – but it does help with balance. at one point a kid on a short board paddled over to me. he said: ” that was a great wave you took” I looked at him and said thanks. he could not have been over the age of 10 or 11. he had matted dreadlocks like Dave pirner from soul asylum. actually he looked liken Tarzan’s son somehow. then he said to me: “I’ve never surfed so early in the morning before.” (it was about 7 am at that point) I said yea some good ones out here. it was big surf. I was on my toes. Who was that kid??
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions