Day: May 1, 2016

Location : B
Time/Length : AM/1.5
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Gets the five. Glorious clear day w/ Tina- windless – got there early- May day cali bolinas freaks in full parade. The patch was breaking way far out.they would sort of broadly fold over and the you had to follow the crest like a puzzle to meander into a long ride. At one point i was in the scrum when i noticed a wave was consistent;y breaking all the way over to my left – where no one was.when the wave would break it would just causally roll into shore like a hawaiian breaker. there was a lot of activity and splashing near the wave which i thought was a dolphin or seal. Eventually i paddled out and over to the place where the wave was consistently breaking. Turns out the splashing was not wild life but a giant ROCK – which I had never noticed. it was very far out from shore – but i guess it was a sandbar- because right at the rock a glassy peak would jump up- you could grab it and then meander slowly towards shore as it formed and re formed- it was like walking down a garden path. anyways – folk saw i was getting this outside wave and soon enough it was crowded as all get out. My last wave i was way out- i snagged it right at the peak and – in fact- had to maneuver my way around the ROCK- then went super left – surfing toward the bird sanctuary- the wave was at all times breaking at the lip -like the wave was breaking sure wide then just gradually – barely- sloping towards shore – so you had to really work the board. Anyway after this wave took me left it started to die and i made a hard right – THE REFORM- but the reform happened right through the inside rock section so it was like dodging boulders. The final section i managed to squezze into a very nice inside shore break, the result? longest ride on trace EVER . 417 harder. i got out and we went to lunch
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=19839.