LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : That would be a 4X4 sesh at the dox. Exceptional waves and performed exceptionally. Back with the repaired and freshly waxed 94 AL. Could NOT believe how crowded it was at 715 AM. A lot very nearly full- B lot packed. Dox super crowded – but even more crowded at the creek where the wave was closing out. Sort of biggish on the North end- but at dox they were rolling in shoulder high – folding over softly – leaving a gently sloped wide open face. My first twenty minutes were tough – right in the scrum. Turns out there were really only three surfers of note including C and C. after 20 I got my groove on and it emptied out a bit – scored some long magic- got out after my fourth wave simply because it was so good and had been an hour…
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