Month: June 2020

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : dox was working but I counted 64 people at 7am. I kept going south. C was on the money. inside first jetty was working – so was mid point at second jetty. I paddled outside and did the Capitola wait- which was about 15 to 20 minutes. last 30 minted the outside waves came more regularly – long rides- then reforming into0 a nice inside section – have to go with the double 4’s
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear blue skies and giant surf. massive closeouts on the north end. breaking big at the dox without much time to scoot out in between sets. most concerning it was crowded as all hell. didn’t want to paddle out by the creek because I didn’t want to be caught with kooks heading straight for me. I decided to go all the way to the dox – hugging the coast and then paddling like hell between the sets. it was the right thing to do. once out I paddled over to the last pod of the dox – sitting outside waiting for the last swing around wave. I managed a great one – it reformed and I had an even better right. I got out and walked back to the end of the dox and went back out to the line up in the same way. I waited again and got a massive left- I almost aborted- people scrambling up the wave as I was coming down. I held on even after the wave crashed around me and managed another foamy right on the reform. that was it. too big with too many kooks – I called it a sesh

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Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : the whole coast was howling  onshore. even down in Santa Cruz it was still slight onshore. a bit of a soft outside wave breaking- very 15 minutes. managed a few of the outsiders – and connected them into the inside. SC was the right call-
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : onshore, surface  chop, coldish,  grayish, rubbishy shore dump – managed to squeak out a few rights  –  but all in all surfed shite.

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Location : SCH
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : small and low tide at the dox. all locals poo pooing it because it was micro. the exact situations where I like to surf the Hook. I wait and wait over by the second peak. (halfway to sharks) -there will always be a glass waist hi bomb coming thru- if you wait long enough.  15 minutes into the session a shoulder high wave came to me – it actually looked like a sculpture made out of glass. was in the perfect position. alone. I was up in an instant- the line held up – got some turns in – glory. it was to be the wave of the entire 2.5 hour session. nothing for the rest of the session even remotely equalled its perfection…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear and clean. sets coming in at the dox – 2 to 3 per. in between it was like nothing going on. empty line up – just 2 or 3 of us. lots of activity – wild life wise in the water. first off the giant Pelicans- they hover high above the water peering intently at the  fish just below the surface- then they dive straight down like a Stuka dive bomber- foldings its wings in right before hitting the surface. popping up – its mouth pouch is full of fish – alive and squirming inside its elastic gullet. it then lifts its head up and you can see the living fish going down the pelicans throat. lots of seals popping up all over the place- big eyes and long eyelashes -like trannies at the pyramid bar on the LES circa 1982. about 3 or 4 whales arching up. seagulls diving around them. a kayaker said to me on his way out -“shit there is a lot of salmon out there” I thought salmons bag was rivers – but whatevs.   a father on a SUP paddled out with his seven year old son on the board. the son was reading a waterproof comic book! there was also a rainbow – but it was hazy and smudged
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/.55
Rating : *
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : it looked the same as yesterday- small shore dump – but without the slivers and slices of open faces. headed up further north where it was 85% closeouts that were violent shore dump. I managed to squirrel in two rides – got up immediately and headed down the line – both rides were great and challenging. but a real challenge to nab. got out and realize I lost my watch
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear. clean and very small. Where was the wave? I was in the A lot. M was coming out and said “go” . F- finished and in the lot -said go. so I went. it was great. little clean slices and slivers right in front of the A lot pump house. I practiced surfing backwards on a few waves…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : clear windless clean. from the B lot it just looked like shore dump with the odd closeout. But then lo’ and behold a magical wave would appear outside – shoulder high breaking then rolling in with a wide open face- to boot only about 10 folk in the water. I scored  one after the next of those special one offs- what a ride. mostly a left but then with a radical cut back it zipped into a right – two rides for the price of one
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Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : everywhere was super packed- the hook was nuts at 745 am. privates was only about 10 people. clean and breaking at the far peak and in the middle peak. the middle peak actually seemed like the better ride – longer ride – a softly rolling lush tumbler – very user friendly. the first half hour was magic. sometimes the wave would break but you could just skirt around the white water and it would open up into a whole new face and ride…
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