Month: January 2021

LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : clean , glassy, small and packed. north of the A lot pump house had better size and shape – down south with the hot polloi it was another matter- all hunt and peck – luck was not on my side and nothing came my way as I paddled to and fro’. finally an hour in I caught a waist high right that stayed open- had a great pop up and raced down the line- a very nice wave. basically that was the high light of the session – but so glad I snagged it and surfed it well
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : cleanish – open corners from the North end to boat dox. super crowded but everyone was more or less spread out as – – finally- it wasn’t mackin’  15′ GIGANTOR DEATH SURF. AS FAR AS PERFORMANCE – finally I surfed NOT SHITTY- amazing- I felt kind of strong and assured – not that I surfed great or good by any stretch- but I finally was able to really grill into one or two nice waves – as well as manage a few meagre cut backs – just surfed a little more like my norm…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : clear. cold. 2 hours from high tide but the water was already leaping at the edge of the boat dox patios. just too much water. though there were waves. I just floundered – got a sort of rocky left. the I paddled over top the right- where it was jacking up but offering a ride. I finally found a big fat one – but blew the take off and belly rode the best part of the wave like a kookmeister. still got a bit though…
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C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : *+
Board : 95
Notes : The mar was a crowded mess. Cap was clean and breaking on the inside bar and way outside – with a pod of about 6 of us. super lully. how lully?? well I paddled out to the outside pod and set my position at 11:15 AM. At exactly NOON my wave finally arrived- it was head high glass – very nice – but my take off was awkward and kooky. I made up for it with an inside section where I got some nice trim – right up at the nose. Thereafter I got three more rides- each one I blew the take off but held on – recovered and managed to eke out a decent ride because the wave had bulk and was breaking so far outside. middle aged kooky takeoffs- so far this winter I have been surfing Shite to Poor. I need a coach and to lose 20 pounds and years…
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