Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : *+
Board : 95
Notes : The mar was a crowded mess. Cap was clean and breaking on the inside bar and way outside – with a pod of about 6 of us. super lully. how lully?? well I paddled out to the outside pod and set my position at 11:15 AM. At exactly NOON my wave finally arrived- it was head high glass – very nice – but my take off was awkward and kooky. I made up for it with an inside section where I got some nice trim – right up at the nose. Thereafter I got three more rides- each one I blew the take off but held on – recovered and managed to eke out a decent ride because the wave had bulk and was breaking so far outside. middle aged kooky takeoffs- so far this winter I have been surfing Shite to Poor. I need a coach and to lose 20 pounds and years…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions