Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : DOUBLE FOURS!!! I looked first at Cap – it was very soft and gentle. hella kelpy but def worth a go. I decided to make look at Privates given the tide was still going low. Thank god I did. Private’s was much more on. The far outside left was working with a waist to head high – but it looked hella kelpy. I noticed that the left – straight out from the stairs basically was ALSO working. And THAT wave was in a KELP FREE ZONE. There was one long boarder on it. everyone else was at the outside pod. Indeed that was the place. A beautiful picture perfect Left that felt like it stayed open all the way down to the Cap pier. I surfed exceptional- riding the nose through very CRITICAL sections that UNLOCKED entire SECOND rides of GLASS FACE. I missed exactly TWO waves the entire session. I had some waves where I was tip riding for really long- just perched. Best waves so far of 2021. Best performance so far of 2021. Razzy goes to the women’s soft top that she lost control of- the tip hit me in the upper thigh as the first section was closing off- I stayed on the board – outrid the closeout and had a sweet second ride of the wave on the reform.
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