Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Clear and windless but swamped out at low tide. It looked REALLY good but reality was it looked better than it surfed. As I was getting bin a HUGE wood beam nearly struck me down. I dragged it out of the water. Had nails in it. Could have killed a small kid. Dragged it as far up the beach by the B lot as I could- it was hella heavy- 12 feet long. Post session I asked a guy to help me drag it further away from the tide. We dumped it right under the Taco Bell – and there its sits – stable -on rocks – almost like a viewing bench…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions