Location : LM
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 94 al
Notes : it was weak – a little stronger up north- but i did spy a set come in at A lot which convinced me to get in. another set came in when i was in the water but i was too inside. it was a wide breaking crumbler – about three waves in the set – i missed all of them. i waited around again for the set – got a few weak dribblers. finally i got an outside one but i slipped on the face and kind of body boarded on the wave- then i got up and the wave reformed – a somewhat nice right section opened up that i took all the way to taco bell – got out on that
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions