Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Overcast. Large on the North end. The dox had very well groomed waist to waist + stuff coming g in. Also most people were gathered at the Creek and Pandabar. My first 20 m minutes were great I managed to score a few waist high plus thingy-bobbies although I surfed them in a rather haphazard and in elegant manner. Then it got slightly crowded. All of a sudden – with players. I got caught inside and had to toss the b board and dive under on one set wave. All in all – thrilling…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions