Location : O PR
Time/Length : am / 3.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : the black rose
Notes : we paddled out again at Marias fairly early . Mikel and Tina came with so that they could attack the farmers market nearby. Maria pick was still to steep and crowded. the best surfers were shortbaorders. hard to shoulder hop. again we paddled past pistons down to the lessons lair of dogmas. found a sweet little right that stayed open surfing over crystal clear water. this is where we stayed. eventually the lessons got out and we had it all to ourselves. a bearded long boarder joined us with his lesson. I managed to get some bigger outside set waves – very nice. that night cooked black beans and had pork with brown rice. dandelion salad with avocation. talked Spotify on the veranda…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions