Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : As Utwo once sang: “MONDAY, BLOODY, MONDAY”- It was packed at the creek. packed with people who could almost – but not quite surf- a dangerous combo. combined with LONG lulls. when a wave did show up everyone felt it was there god given right to claim it no matter where they were in the lineup. boards and bodies strewn every which way after a set rolled in. I was trunking it in the 62 degree tropical water. I never managed to score anything substantial – just bits and bobs. one wave I was finishing on – the board fell in front of me – then me sort of on top of the board- the rail hit me in the face and I knew there was damage. blood everywhere- where my teeth okay?- couldn’t.\,t tell. J , G and T helped me at the car as I assessed the damage and glazed it up- teeth good – lip kind of smashed and cut in two places – essentially just a fat lip. really lucky…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions