Month: May 2016

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : what can you say? got there early and it was dead flat. Chuck got there and after over hearing the mayor of linda mar decided it was the day to re-check monitor. from the top of the hill we observed a lone Janitor work his way around some roiling mushy sections (w/B6 in his cargo van doing a likewise rundown). after solving most of the worlds problems we decided to head back to the Mar and “it was alright” to quote the VU. things had picked up and there were some glassy sections to be had. B6 on his crazy no fin foam board. in the distance a GIANT SPLASH a GIANT tail – from a whale spleen the surface and causin a komotion. everybody oohed and awwwed…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=22555

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Wow – pretty good out there. Sure crowded at boat dox and at the creek and in front of the A lot pump house. But right in front of Taco Bell i noticed a right coming through with no one to speak of on it. I hit it and it was great – it sort of petered out on the inside but still a very nice glide
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=22420.

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : For one hour at boatdox i couldn’t get a wave. very nice well groomed waves but i flubbed everything. A lot of good surfers in the scrum. Very competitive but cool people – had to be on top of it and i wasn’t. let wave after wave pass me by. the crowd thinned out and then in the second wave the waves got better- i snagged some magic -offshore no whitewater faces where i was inches away from having all ten over the board. hateful first hour – second hour GOLDENT CALIFORNIA OFFSHORE DREAM. go figure…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=22291

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Well it was pretty big. very difficult to get our. didn’t go into the scrum at boatdox but kept in between the boatdox pack and the pack going right at the creek. I would wait and a big giant wedge would come through that i could snag. Size wise felt at my limits. Got out because it was weekend jabronis in the lineup- clueless soft tops in the impact zone waiting to get speared…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=22122

NS

Location : NS
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes :
Stats/Video : Dead flat at c street from the cam so i went out to Ventura point. Very interesting dune beach type state park. but still flat so i went back to c street hoping against hope there might be a bump. also no. decide to fuck it and get an early start back up to SF. One thing i forgot was when me and Jonas from OZ were surfing at cowells he thought the seals yelping sounded like dogs and said “mate not good” After I explained they were seals and not dogs he explained that dogs in the water attracted sharks – something with their energy that vibrated in the water and that it was common knowledge in OZ. Anyway, when I was in C- street with the performance surf dog in the line – up his words came back to me and I kinda got skittish. Cool as this white husky on a longboard might be it just might be smell bait for a big ‘ole great white- with an over abundance of caution it shortened my sesh…

O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Back at c street at 715 am and it was somewhat flat. I walked up to the jabroni parking lot and there was a tiny little glassy peak that was coming thru – but no body in the water. Sure it was soft and short but it was nice – and ridable-plus glassy and windless. I drove over to the “rough trade” parking lot and suited up- got some perfectly fine gliders and two folk joined me. it got better and I decided to paddle way further out by the “point”. Much better logging- with three other middle aged long boarders.. totally fine and fun sesh and on one of my last waves – a knee high breaker i got as close as i ever have to getting ALL TEN over the nose…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=21862.

O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/2.0 /PM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : c street morning sesh w/ eric s. and steve h.. softer and crumbly- went way out to the point – basically no one out except us. but there were fucking waves. nothing much but i caught some gliders. went back for a late afternoon sesh – tina had fin shed filming- went right in front of the steps and it was pretty good short rides soft but okay. A crew came out with a dog on a surfboard – dog was very pro- they were filming him with a drone. they pushed him off on a few good size waves for a dog- a white husky that never fell off the board. you could tell the trainer knew EXACTLY which wave to push the dog off on – very good wave selection…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=21785.