Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Well it was the Kapuna. Only the top 3 in each heat advance. In my heat MARK SHOTWELL, MIKE WALLACE AND RAGNAR JOHNSON. Basically 3 professional surfers, plus one other guy who I knew and was not that bad. So, basically I was walking into a heat where knew I was gonna lose no matter how well i surfed. Turns out I surfed pretty well. Waves had jacked up for our heat and outside sets were starting to hold and not close out. My strategy was to paddle far outside and wait for the nom and try and score big on at least my first wave. (everyone else took the option of staying inside. I did get a bomb when the heat started – I could have surfed it better but just barely stayed ahead of the curl. However after the wave i tried to get back out and promptly realized i was IN THE IMPACT ZONE with a giant wave heading straight for me. I took it on the head. Came up to see another one – took that on the head – then another and then one more. I was exhausted. The inside guys had positioned themselves well and avoided taking the set on the head. It sapped me. I got two more okay waves – surfed them okay but I could tell from what the other guys were getting I was cooked. I placed 4th out of 5. I know if i had been in the other heat i would have placed 2nd or 3rd and advanced. My heat – 4th don’t cut it. I went to the dox and promptly caught an AMAZING left that was insane- perched the whole ride on the very edge of the waiver and nose- very memorable ride. bought a change robe for G from Julie and the watched the same 3 guys from my heat surf in the shortboard heat. Waves by that time had gotten even BETTER. SHOULDER HIGH GLASS- and everyone in the heat was kick ass surfer- a thrilling and amazing heat to watch. Easily the best heat/waves I had seen in many a year…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=94208.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions