Day: May 13, 2017

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/3.0
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Gina and I had the drill down. Leave schmidt house by 630 am (other side of felton). Check out the Hook quickly and then over to 36th to park in front of Ashley’s who was already looking over the rail with a cup of coffee at 36th. I went out immediately . it was clean at 38th and a little smaller – but you could tell outside at second peak was breaking – and breaking much bigger. Had a frustrating first hour. Couldn’t really place myself. Kevin O. arrived – on his new andrini- Ashley nearby giving Gina pointers. Lots of Linda Mar folks drifted by J4, T3, K4. I made the decision to bite the bullet and paddle out to second peak. It was – of course- even bigger once you got out to the line up- big masses of water that swelled up and cast a shadow as they approached. I was surprised at the number of soft top jabronis in the line – up- barely able to sit upright. I lucked out on a left right away – pretty massive drop and a carve up to the top – then it fizzled out. Waited for quite a while until I found another one with juice- solid overhead and an endless face- barreled past T4 and he screamed “yeaAAAA” – it kept going- 316 yards almost 50 second of pure wave time. after that went back inside to get a 38th peeler. 3 hours and over 1000 calories – a new record. we all went back to the schmidt house and made potatoes and open faced steak sandwiches with the previous nights left overs. After brunch tina mike and gina went on a long hike – had of it was through the river – great fun – laughter sunshine food exercise
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=81154