Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : the Left was back on at Middles. it turned on in 20 minutes – from dumpy nothing – to nice little lefty chestnuts. unfortunately I was surfing like shite – and the peak was swarmed with good long boarders. I paddled over tp the right -which wasn’t as happening because the wave ran out of gas at the channel – still it was underpopulated and offered more of an initial thrust than the left. got a few nice ones – but truth be told – underperformed…
Stats/Video :
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions