Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : onshore wind – overcast and general mush from the north end to the south end. I was parked in the B lot. As I was changing I noticed T in the A lot. He saw me and walked all the way across the TB parking lot to talk. we talked waves and that he was going south to San Diego to visit his grandkids. we discussed that although the waves were rubbish – it was SURFABLE. That Linda in general was almost ALWAYS surf able and how lucky we were. T = such a great guy. I surfed a bit rubbish – though the waves were there – just couldn’t totally connect. A VET organization was in the water. an organization that helps vets overcome PTSD by surfing. there were a lot of them and one guy told a long long story about how he served two tours in Iraq – graphic description of IED hitting his armored carrier. a buddy getting shot in the face. etc etc – on and on. wished I had a tape recorder. weird thing is they were in CAMO wetsuits! both men and women. two whales breached and the a family of dolphins swam right in front of us. they were all ecstatic at these sightings. my god what they have been through was chilling…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions