Month: April 2021

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.35
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Chopped up. But nice wedges coming thru in front of the A lot pump house. Only me and T and D in the lineup. I slid into some real fast breaking bumpy faced Right Wedges that were really thrilling. Surfed very well. Later that afternoon Tina and I got our second jab – across the street in the 24th street parking lot…
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : That was quite a session! Folks were in pods up North and I met a few people who told me go North- however it was not like yesterday. Though still rather flat on the South end there was more swell in the water and heavier waves coming in on the sets up North. I didn’t want none of that. Right in front of the A lot pump house (which was flat yesterday) there was a very well groomed fast right. It folded over quick – no room for any dilly dally. If you didn’t pop up pronto you just got lip clipped and that was that. Found some really killer fast shoulders that opened up into some second reforms with a little fat face room for a turn…
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : (%
Notes : Cam showed the Mar flat as a lake at first light. But I knew there’d be a ripple. Indeed in front of the A lot pump house a pod was scratching out close to shore knee hi shoulders. G said – go North – two peaks that are okay. Indeed that was the case. They were like clean wedgy , chip shots. A peak that offered up a nice almost flattish face – cut back and then a close to shore reform. Pretty great – not to crowded. surfed really well ALOT of very sharp cut backs…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Smaller than yesterday. barely a crowd. I started off at dox. and I just kept blowing wave after wave- misjudging – paddling and cooking out. I finally got two waves and surfed them well however. but given the slim crowd I should have had many more. I then paddled over to Pandibar/Creek. Nobody was there – but a big fat right wedge was coming thru. I’ll be damned if I wasn’t gonna get one. again I kept misfiring on my waves – maybe I wasn’t digging enough OR just not reading the lumpy wedges correctly. however one finally came my way – a nice right with a generous reform…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Cold. Cross onshore. Bruised cloudy sky. Crowded. Crowd was half okay half not okay. too much wrong male energy.  Sets had size. I missed the big outside bombs. However, I lurched into a nice chunky shoulder size shoulder and got way far up on the nose- awkwardly both feet were far up the nose but not evenly spread – my feet were together and towards the inside rail- I don’t know why – or how I was able to ride the wave so long in that position – utter chance – no skill nor craft involved – pure dumb luck it seemed like. but for that ride alone – a three.
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