Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : minus*
Board : 95
Notes : Single worst performance of my modern surfing career. Revolting – vile and vulgar sub-kook like showing in the water- I missed every wave I paddled for. I should have been arrested by the surf police and my board physically take off of me and ordered never to enter the water again. how is it possible to surf SO long and still have a day where I surf so abysmally? my poor wave selection and take offs were bottomless – as soon as I thought I scraped the base of the barrel I found I could go a few levels lower. At one point I looked up at the mostly blue sky and clouds formed into a visage of the great Duke Kahanamoku – who looked down on me and was weeping. Soon misty words came out of Duke’s stern cloud face “what have I wrought?” Of note – a crazy jumping spinning thresher shark was non stop in the line up – jumping out of the water constantly like it it was on meth or something…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions