Location : LMB
Time/Length : Am/.40
Rating : *****
Performance : *
Board : 92 asp ss
Notes : Yes a five BIG BIG BIG and very clean. OB hotshots out in the mess. But i couldnt connect. Was outside for a monster bomb about to take the drop when i see t2 . I thought he was to deep to make it but i pulled out. Started to paddle out and saw a “MONSTER” bearing down. I was next to a mo leash hotshot OB GUY and he looked at me and said “now we’re talking” it detonated on both of us – i lost my board – no idea how he held onto his. The wave blew out both of my contact lens. Totally nlind. Managed to get a very nice glassy left and took it all the way in – didnt go back in
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions