Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Holy shit – gotta give that session double fours. It was dox waist to shoulder high perfection. overcast but glassy – with the occasional offshore gust. My second wave I pearched endlessly – then felt the offshore gust blow the left contacts lens right off my eyeball. I paddled In , left the board on a red kelp bed and hoofed it back to the car for a new lens. Crowdwise It jumped up to about 12 people – but then a number of people got out and it went back down to about six (the creek was also working) . Trading off waves with J and just a few others – couldn’t believe how empty the lineup was for such stellar conditions. 8 waves – 2 over 400 feet and 23 mph (vs typical dox distance and speed of 160 -200 feet and 9-15 mph speed). Six other waves at over 300 feet at 19 mph…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions