Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Big and nasty on the North end. Clean and biggish on the south end. Crowded. Two killer shoulder high lefts. Nearly ran over D. on one wave – barely missed him and barely missed falling directly on his fin. Could barely put my wetsuit on because yesterday getting out my middle finger hit the board. It turned really black and blue and swollen…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions