Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Would be criminal to go with anything shy of the DOUBLE 4’S. clear and windless. slight surface chop in the water. from the b lot it looked not great – but then a set came and you knew it was happening. I sat outside the dox pod and slightly north of the pod. held out for the el combo’s and got a fair few – surfing very strong – felt strong on my feet and the board. afterward I put sea weed on my head like a cushion and tried to walk with the board balanced on my head. (a la chris Benjii goree isle Senegal folk) – it worked with the seaweed cushion and I got about three steps with the longboard just balanced on my head…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions