Month: October 2020

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Foggy and windless. Dark and Swampy high tide at 730 am. Flailing for 35 minutes. And then – things sort of cleaned up and a Right appeared in front of the A lot pump house I managed to avail myself of a few nice little numbers. However, I was RUN INTO three times – twice  the soft top drop in jockey  managed to completely entangle the leashes – and then panic because we were inter twined. Both times I took my leash off at the board and paddled away and re attached once I was outside..Can’t believe I emerged without a ding or cut…
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Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance :**
Board : 95
Notes : overcast and close to dead flat from north to south end. way up north there was a little sliver of a thing with a pod of folk like HS, E and MO, – I managed to get a few corners actually…
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Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : *+
Board : 95
Notes : Clean and windless. glassy. started at the A lot. there were some clean little chunk lets coming through amongst the closeout and getting better as time passed. M was paddling from up North and I asked her how it was and se gave the thumbs up – So I paddled all the way almost to the north rock- a pod of familiar faces – but I was reading the waves wrong – they were wide breaking things that were warmly because of the high tide and I couldn’t really connect. in the last 15 minutes of being up North I managed a few decent thingy-bobbies. On the walk back to the A lot the spot in front of the A lot had opened up- corners were everywhere- then it would go flat – then a set would appear- Still relatively empty crowd wise – especially for really good conditions- A lot was less than half full. B lot empty…
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Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clear blue skies. light offshore. placid glass like conditions. peaks from the north end to about Taco Bell. for Linda Mar more or less EMPTY. PW and NOM where the only ones on a peak infant of Taco Bell. a little glassy mound would come by every six or seven minutes that you could take left or right. I joked with NOM that I thought he may have gotten 150 waves in his session. he said I guess I packed the right board. looked like he was leashes on a mid length andreni. I managed quite a few nice rights – surfed strong for almost the entire two hours…
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Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **+
Performance : ***/*
Board : 95
Notes : Clear skies. Sight offshore. Clean conditions. Maybe the tiniest bit of surface chop. Again – it was pretty empty – though I ws in at 830 – after the morning rush. Still B lot barely full. With waves/peaks from North to South there was plenty to go around. I settled on a Right in front of Taco Bell. So did E. Love to watch her surf – wide feet on the nose stance – pretty unique. My first hour was pretty damn good. I scooted into right after right and gulped down the open faces. Then I sort of fell apart again in the second hour – like my battery drained and I forgot how to surf…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : minus*
Board : 95
Notes : offshore – texture on the surface. the B lot almost empty. a handful of folk here and there. dox maybe 5 folks. stuff was coming in  but no one was around- felt like 1987. anyway I started out with a nice chunky small left that held up then everything fell to pieces. Really good local long boarder came over to Me and said you need to be more up front when you paddle into the waves -I’ve been watching you for years and you just are always half way down your board when you paddle into the wave. he was right of course. with Rob from paddle academy I learned to change my basic paddle. rob always said get up front – almost like you are sinking. I do that in paddling out. but when I paddle into waves I’m almost always sliding back to the mid point of the board – I miss the wave and flail- like almost every wave today…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Dox was crumbly waist high stuff early on – almost right at high tide. It also wasn’t that crowded for a Sunday prime AM hour. My first hour had all the glory- outside set waves not that big – but not that small. Then my surfing went into a slow kook deterioration … fumble after fumble- the waves also died off. its hour beat the second hour nearly to death…
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Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : *+
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Flattened out. But relatively glassy with some minor surface chop. Looked promising in the first light – but actually the South end was mostly just closing out.  I hunted and I pecked – from the creek to the Taco Bell as the line up filled in with soft top warriors. I managed to score some here and there glass lines – zippy little knee high  things that had a bit of a face to race down. I also managed a full spin into goofy and then held the line for a spell surfing goofy foot. Later T said he A and M had a blast on the North end. I need to go there more it’s just I chicken out every time. Surfers talk about surfing “waves of consequence.” More often than not My motto is “Surfing Waves Of Utterly Little To No Consequence.”
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Well that was something else. Best dox session of the Fall. It was not AS big as yesterday – but there was still some damn sizable shit pushing through. Also not messy and choppy- relatively glassy – a hint of surface chop. Light offshore breeze. Clear skies. I sat way outside- usual position which is outside and slightly North of the main dox pod. hoping for the set wave that would swing wide. I got a number of them. One monster came at me and I was in perfect position. All I could see in front of me was about 10 surfers madly paddling toward me trying to scratch over the top as I popped up and drew my line. Later Ch said – “man that was a screamer.” Around a half hour went by and I was in the same position and the same thing happened – the board rattled as I skirted down the face. Paddling back out I watched a guy on a mid length get an inside right that was a foamy epic. As I passed him I said “nice ride” He said “Me? you just had an outside screamer.” Two screamers in one session – I’ll take it…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Holy Christ it was big and messy. The north end of the Mar was just giant white water closeout – like the inside at Nazare. Everyone was packed down at dox. it would be placid but then the sets would come in- a lot were closeout – but many were head high gems with a lot of juice. I hour and two waves – was very selective- could have surfed both of them a little more elegantly – but I was just holding on for dear life…
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