Location : O
Time/Length : AM/1.5
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : Sat way outside- near the buoy and waited. Rewarded. Almost every ride was a 250 yard plus killer. Glass- head high- S curves and cutbacks. My last wave was “only” 219 yards but it was so good i got out. It was overhead. I was the lone wolf in perfect position. People on the inside saw it coming and started to scramble outside. All I had to do was turn and paddle down the face. It kept giving… turn left into the curl and then set up for another section on the right- straight down the line. I had three distinct sections – overhead top of the wave trim- cutback left the set up for the second part- head high right trim- then cut back left and set u[ for shoulder high right trim. could of had two more section s like that but i fumbled. no matter. i body boarded another wave being it into shore for 117 yards
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=24138.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions