Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : very nice stuff in front of the A lot and towards “middles” as I like to call it. But heavily crowded. They were breaking in a tight peak – so everybody was clustered. I managed a nice left that was the last wave in a set so the face was all white from the churned up previous waves – got a few S lines in. Crowd made me nervous so I paddled over to “Piandas” – that was a mistake – much more lully and missed out when the sets did come. That night chris at the casa – in town for a few days- stew and stories – along for the ride was chaba and rose and the 77 year old Dr D…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions