Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ?
Board : 84 AL
Notes : REDEMPTION WAVE DEPT. Clear and windless – cleanish. Went in at “middles” but it was just frustration with the new board. At one point I had a beautiful open faced right I was SURE I was in – but I wasn’t I was more or less ON TOP of the wave and it slipped through my fingers. Frustratio amplified. At this point I was all the way down by Taco Bell. Finally, something lined up – SOLID- I dug in til I was sure I was in which made for a slap dash and kooky pop up. However , I was in, and the wave was just really starting- I got up high right away – trimmed a bit – then dove – real fast- down the face then back up and repeasted the sequence. Best wave yet on the new board? I got out. one hour and a half and one solid wave – number of folks said something to me in parking lot about the wave and I had to say — it was the only one of the sesh- they call it redemption wave
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions