Location : LTB 3/3+
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : It was folding over fast – hollow right openenin g up at Taco Bell. It was a number of good surfers coming down the line really fast and I didn’t want to get in anybodies way – it was super frustrating because i was off to the side – not at the peak with the pack- I didn’t want to be no “shoulder hoppin’ Johnny” so I aborted a number of waves as the better players were coming down the line. Then right about at the hour mark a wave came my way and I grabbed it – pretty good- then about 4 minutes later another nicely groomed wave came through and i was perfectly positioned – i surfed it well and it really held up on the inside – my ‘redemption” wave…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions