Location : PG
Time/Length : AM PM 5 HOURS
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : W
Notes : SAT AM another right big load of close out ocean beach bollocks I tell you. Pounded right well by waves that were not going anywhere. Mind you- on the north end were some brilliant waves if’n you were on a short board. But long board mellowness – ? RUBBISH. PM Holy Shit! The redemption session! And the last session of the whole vacay. Just like Marcellus said – high tide and the giant closeout sets were now breaking outside. It was choppy and big but manageable – the waves had SHOULDERS!! It was even onshore wind but still good. I lost count of the substantive waves I got. Nice long rides where I could get comfortable with what was happening and get acquainted with the wave. Plus – barely anyone in the water. Last sesh and best sesh.
Stats/Video : https://vimeo.com/264801518
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions