Day: October 3, 2015

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.10
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 92
Notes : Well it was huge for me- 1100 joules. Straight to the B lot which was already almost full at 815. Massive closeout slabs from Taco Bell to up North. Thus, everyone was squeezed between boatdox and the creek. Wasn’t even sure if I could punch out – but there were lulls. I watched and waited. Lots of folk in the water that should not have been there … but it was sunny and light wind so it was wall to wall floating jabronis. Timed it well and made it out fairly easily. Didn’t go to boatdox proper cause it was too crowded. Caught some girthy slabbish waves – they crumbled over and sloped on the outside (where I caught them) then reformed and went hollow on the inside. Stats show a 167 harder – new record for me. My last wave was a pretty big left which I thought I was lined up perfectly for- but it pitched up at the last second and I realized I was too deep. I hugged my board and managed to tilt it left and managed to maneuver around a section billboarding the wave – then got on my feet and caught a decent section-albeit jerboa dodging. Got out more because too many people – felt skittish and in the end wasn’t surfing as well as I should have
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=5650