Month: July 2023

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : md 2.0
Notes : First half hour was okay. Rights and lefts – small but fairly well groomed. I just kept being in the wrong place at the wrong time. By the time I got my bearing it just SHUT OFF – no more waves – went flat more or less…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Nive wedge on offer at the Creek. The right was working and I was surfing well. Made some nice lefts as well. Caught one very nice outside set wave that meandered and opened up to the right and then the left- great ride – pretty good session…
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Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : **
Performance : *+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Another Kapuna. They set up right in front of the A lot – which was a good move. There were waves- nice little wedges rights and lefts. Plus my heat was not chock full of Santa Cruz kingpins. Alas, I surfed like a kook. Couldn’t get into a groove- wrong wave selection blah blah blah. Came in last out of five. Pathetic. Went down to the creek and caught two pretty nice lefts after paddling thru and around the crowd for an hour…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Overcast. Creek Peak. Bit of a crowd. Strong Onshore – but there was enough size to compensate for the poor wind direction- Some nice outside sets- I wish I surfed better – but still I managed a few okay Rights – not bad session…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Not bad. Not bad at all. Looked rubbish from the B lot at first – but there was a good number of people at the creek peak so I knew something must be coming thru. It was pretty glassy for the first 45 minutes and I got a very nice open right that really made the session – just in the perfect spot for it – and no one in the flight path…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : it looked like the same soft micro mush as yesterday- but when I got out it started to jack up – and get more consistent. soon it was about 45 minutes of pretty nice waist high waves- all with no one out except for me and hat J. just the two of us on a weekend – at dox – with good waves – we were laughing at it all – I told him stories about surfing Senegal and going into the rocks and gettin sea urchins on top of sun stroke – good session – surprise session. (the creek was packed – but no one paddled over to bother us
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : md 2.0
Notes : mehhhh. it was really lo tide and very soft- alot of paddling for soft little lines – lots of people scrambling for anything that was a little more ridable…
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