Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Well Linda was a zoo at dox – also it was big. On the spur of the moment we decided to spiral down to SC and it was the right choice. We rolled in SC (where the alot of the white faces in that village of the damned seemed to both of us just a little too suspiciously gleeful) and headed straight to Privates. Everywhere was packing so it was a good choice and the tide was right. We both got some waves despite the crowd. I locked into an outside SET wave that was a really really big highlight. One of my largest waves (at least it felt that way) in the last 2 or three months. In fact I can pinpoint exactly when I felt I had a wave that big before – it was in Ventura at C street maybe a year and a half ago. Glad I held on and kept it together on the fucking thing. There was a short boarder also on it- but he was behind the section – I kept thinking he was gonna power around the section and come up on my ass – but he never made it. GLORY WAVE.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions