Day: August 30, 2024

Location : LMC 3/3+
Time/Length : am/1.40
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : md 2.0
Notes : Wow – creek repeat – delivers again. Not really that great size wise as previous few days – but still some righteous little clean lines coming through. Surfed very solid – so I think the lack of size was made up for by the fact that I made the most of the waves I did get. got some nice nose rides. After my last ride a woman came up to me on the beach and said “DO YOU GIVE LESSONS?” I looked at her for a long time – then like Charlton Heston at the end of Planet of the Apes- I fell on my knees and started pounding the sand- weeping uncontrollably – not in anger that earth was forever lost – but that another human being thought I was perhaps a good enough surfer to give a lesson. After I looked up into the sun, tears streaming down my face and thanking Neptune I noticed – for some reason – she was looking at me strangely. Thereafter, I directed her to the good folk at Traveller and AS a right proper teacher…
Stats/Video :