Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.25
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : I spent a lot of time in the water paddling to and fro with not much to show for it. Started on the south end and the first 15 minutes were okay – then I just couldn’t catch shit. after an hour I got out and walked up North. There it was 85% brutal tomahawk close outs. the other 15% were pretty nice sizable racy shoulders – the problem was getting to that 15%- I managed one nice racy open left. the rest of the time I paddled for something and it was “abort -danger – closeout” and pulled off the wave at the last possible millisecond as it POWER DUMPEED INTO A LOW TIDE SHORBREAK…
Stats/Video :
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions