Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Holy Christ it was big and messy. The north end of the Mar was just giant white water closeout – like the inside at Nazare. Everyone was packed down at dox. it would be placid but then the sets would come in- a lot were closeout – but many were head high gems with a lot of juice. I hour and two waves – was very selective- could have surfed both of them a little more elegantly – but I was just holding on for dear life…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions