Month: May 2020

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes :  outside bombs. they seemed very big from shore. I paddled way wide of the peak then over and down into the pod. sit-in outside. there I waited. it stopped. no more outside bombs. I waited outside for a half hour then gave up and paddled into the pod further inside with the others. still , managed some nice rights – but was off my game as to judging sets and waves- I always missed the real kahuna. a bozo that looks like David Wallace ‘s father from little Britain kept being in the right place at the right time for outsiders and then caterwauling down an open face like a British beach ball … frustrating …somewhat… I suppose–all things considered
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : the LOTS have been opened. 630 am and north to south  Linda was packed. hard to believe. wasn’t like it was epic. I stayed to a pod that was focused on the panda right. it looked better than it surfed. or was it that I surfed worse than I thought? hard to say. had a lot of near misses with jabronis. only memorable part was gettin into a set wave early. a creek rocket right. I got up real quick and it curled over – I was way ahead of it- as it curled – I saw I could enter a tube – I crouched down and looked into the void- a CLOSE OUT TUBE I opted out – and punched out through the back – but kinda cool

?
Stats/Video :

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/.55
Rating : *
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : flattish from north to south – but some little slices and corners available from roughly Taco Bell up to the North end. I settled on the little sliver of a right just a little north of Taco Bell. and I got at first quite a few little lefts. then I moved to the right and got a few. Then a nice right came my way – I was in the sweet spot and damn if it wasn’t a weird wave that KEPT GIVING AND GIVING . I couldn’t believe how long the face stood up. when the ride finally ended I said holy shit – session over early – I KNOW  I will not get a wave better than that in these conditions. so, I quit while I was ahead
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : overcast and choppy mushiness. soft crumbly thingy-bobbies. but damn if I wasn’t in the right place at the right time. great first two dox waves. then the dox kind of shut down. but the right seemed to turn on- right at the creek – the little rocket in my pocket right- damn I got three of them- just nice little corners. great sesh on garbage pail waves…plus not really crowded at all…

Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clear blue skies but a little chop in the water. I opted for a little right – a lil rocket by pandas. most folk were heading over to the dox – but it looked soft and weak compared to pandas. first hour was grand – little rocket right corners – then it died down right quick…
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : Jesus – banging up against double 4’s. clear and windless- clean glassy mounds at the dox- again first hour was best- with some choice nuggets coming through – hung on the outside and managed to pick off not a small number of gems…
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : clear and clean at the dox. very soft – very low tide- but there were nice little clean mounds ds that came through. plus I surfed well. put in a new fin – a big wedge fin – could not feel much difference – more stability??
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : from 645 to 745 am it was clean big outside glassy bombs. got a number of them. surfed with grace and elegance. and flamboyantly. using my hands a lot more on cut backs – grand over the top gestures like a philharmonic director – but it does help with balance. at one point a kid on a short board paddled over to me. he said: ” that was a great wave you took” I looked at him and said thanks. he could not have been over the age of 10 or 11. he had matted dreadlocks like Dave pirner from soul asylum. actually he looked liken Tarzan’s son somehow. then he said to me: “I’ve never surfed so early in the morning before.” (it was about 7 am at that point) I said yea some good ones out here. it was big surf. I was on my toes. Who was that kid??
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : it was jerky jerk surf. I couldn’t really grasp onto the waves. they sort of doubled up and looked makable – but then dumped into a close out – so there were many instances of pulling out at the last second. that said I did manage a few very nice rides.
Stats/Video :