Month: May 2020

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Didn’t look like anything. low tide. super low actually. all exposed green algae rock. so soft and crumbly and anything there was closing out- was there anything even ridable? I saw a wave – such as it were- come by dox – that wave seemed to have a corner. I was sold. actually once out there I managed some very nice rides- very challenging – but much better than I thought it would be. then I noticed a glint on a water drop on the end of my board. sure enough a hairline fracture right on the nose. decided to fix it myself rather than risk taking it to R. First I sanded it down. Then I dabbed sun cure on it and went to work. once back I put the clear ding puka patch over it. Then over that I wrapped it with clear DING tape
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : Clear -except for a couple of gray clouds that the sun was backlighting in a pretty incredible. glassy. hella crowded. but I just sat way outside- managed to get some nice set waves. one left I had I pulled off my longest “hood ornament” a great sesh – just shy of a double 4’s…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : another repeat from yesterday – except the waves were bigger and conditions cleaner – and crowd crowdier. I sat outside – but missed the nice big set waves every time- but I got enough action. then I moved over to the creek – where it was less crowded – but steeper and hollower and scarier- waited and waited and finally pressed the go button on one Right- fast and critical -sesh done
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.o
Rating : **+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : cold gray and drizzly. but the mar was packed north to south. I thought the right at the creek. but then a perfect shoulder high wave came thru at dox – so dox it was. my first half hour were good but never managed to score the outside bomb. it got crowded and sort of died down so I paddled over to the right at the creek. it had jacked up – steep barreling right – more short than long board – but I waited and got a real ROCKET – stayed ahead of it – just barely – the wave curling and crashing on my ass as I kept one step in front of it…
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : misty and grey. again more soft jumbled up close to shore mush. but again surfed well and made some very nice extend puzzle piece rights. there would be an occasional wave that would erupt and it was very nice- another case of rubbish surf + surfing well = good to occasionally great sesh…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : *+
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : grey skies. mushy and  jumbled up. but there were corners. and I was surfing good- so that equals a pretty good session. managed no small number of little left go rights and onto the tip- challenging to get a ride and a corner but thrilling when you did.
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : I started at the Creek. it was really mellow- but clean. I kept paddling -bit by bit- up north. As I approached TB I paddled towards R and
T who said to me – there’s a wave here Pat. Indeed right then a set came shoulder high glass – Wow how did I not see this when I first was looking at the beach. The next hour I rated waves with T and R. Got some real numbers – rights – with some heft and girth. R was on the nose basically every ride- great sesh- just wish I had paddled to the TB right off the bat – and wish I had made better wave selection on the sets
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : the waves at first blush didn’t look like much – but from north to south it was PACKED – LIKE A WEEKEND. I focused on the creek – it was real clean and indeed there was a sweet right coming thru. (dox was also working) Longboard pro E with her gap tooth and bo legged style was ripping – on the tip in three steps on every wave. it was one of those days where every wave came my way – no hunt and peck – just the outside right at the creek – it peaked up and then you had the long face-off – surfed better than I have in weeks. I guess its like tennis – you always play better when your playing a better player
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Everyone was trudging up to crespi. Why? right at the creek and taco bell there was a clean little wisp of a wave. On the right was the skinny guy with a goatee and high voice- great longboarder. delicately nailing the little ones. on the left was the hatchet faced man – also a good long boarder – filleting these little rights. I just watched them and said – I am going no further. I chose the right. I guess I could see- if you couldn’t surf -why you would walk right past the south end. it was like a lake. but when these little mounds would come by and you got right up on it -you got a damn good open faced ride. I was surfing great so I got wave after wave- getting right up on the nose on more than a few.
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