Month: May 2020

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : clear skies – crazy cross offshore – very annoying – waves? not rubbish. not right rubbish. RIGHT BLOODY RUBBISH.
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Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : I went down to primarily drop the Hide wetsuit off at blown out wetsuit repair – get the bottom two legs replaced. I knew C would be working -indeed it was. the beach was closed except for water activities or jogging between 11 am and 5pm. the problem was kelp. thick tangles like jungle vines. waves were breaking right in the kelp – almost impossible to get a cleared takeoff – then you had to manage the kelp on the face by “hopping” over it – then it cleared and you had clean face time. very very challenging. then the kelp bed backed off – further out to sea and the swell picked up- surfed really well with waves that seemed to stay open forever. no one in Capitola seemed to be wearing  masks – perhaps they were all day trippers?  blown out didn’t answer the door – probably just closed up shop because the swell was good and went surfing. the ride back was perfect . blue skies and glassy blue ocean – with mounds of perfect waves breaking. I ate insane strawberries – then my turkey sandwich on tartine bread – then an crazy dense tartine coffee cake – a Covid kali day for the record books…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : cold and grey. super low tide. looked like a moonscape with all the exposed rocks. there was mushy unformed slop up and down the beach. however right in front of the creek I noticed a long boarder really tucking into some micro corners and getting some nice action. I was jelly. could I do that with these waves? suited up and paddled near him. it was a pretty good sesh – I whipped into the mush and made corners. then it started to improve. my nemesis entered – BB but he was clearly going left and I was sticking to the rights – so we avoided any chance of interaction
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes :  what a boondoggle session. I thought coming around the bend it might be okay down by the dox. F said to me in the lot “it sux”. despite this I immediately suited up. it was clear and windless. as is the norm now. I park in the joy division parking lot then take the board in the bag with the leash still attached in my flip flops down to the beach. its the long walk across the joy division lot then across the rocks of the Creek exiting onto creek/boatdox spot. it was super low tide and nothing mush burgers everywhere. I had hope however. at dox I almost immediately got a half way decent right. then nothing. I paddled over to Pandas. nothing really. then I paddled back over to the creek. basically nothing. I paddled further toward dox proper. finally managed a left – but was not much –
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear windless relatively clean-esque – very low tide. dox offerings were on the menu – C in the mix and M and B and a bunch of kooks. I realized yesterday I tweaked my knee when I fell in front of my board- I didn’t realize it until I started walking into the water and I felt the soreness under the right knee cap…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : minus *
Board : 95
Notes : Clear and windless with chop in the water. mushy little mounds here and there – I couldn’t really see anything with a ridable corner. finally a little mound erupted by boatdox – ridable – then another one. that was enough incentive. At the dox I just couldn’t score – kept misjudging and mis reading waves – I managed a few very weak and paltry rides. I paddled over to Pandas cause I thought I saw the Right start to work. Within the next 10 minutes the Right just JACKED  up – significant. But I couldn’t paddle into them – I thought I was in the pocket – and then NOTHING. I paddled back over towards the creek because the Panda right was just TOO jacked – really steep and hollow. I thought probably better that I didn’t even get a wave. I waited and waited – finally something came my way – it wasn’t much – but it wasn’t nothing. I feel it was overall my worst performance day in recent memory – utter failure. getting out G was walking his pup and waited for me – “Hey S told me you were in a big punk rock band – I would have never guessed it in a million years from knowing you.” it was funny. we chatted for a bit about the Covid – then went on our way… me to the joy division parking lot – G to the other end of the Mar with his leashes pup- a sun drenched mile away…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes :  Wasn’t gonna go. F was already coming out of the water -“don’t think you’re gonna like it Pat.” it was drizzly foggy – water was all chopped up- overall as grey as an early Morrissey song. but there were little close to shore chunkiest by the creek. if I was at Lincoln I would have definitely said – I’m all in. right away I managed a number of zippy little rights – then a swarm of people arrived after a half hour. 20 somethings talking Covid and there weird roommate stories and how each one had bizarre safety cleanliness tactics. When I came out S asked if she should go- given that she’s a kick ass Hawaiian surfer I said she would have the run of the waves and that it was worth it. funny – in the parking lot we both said we had bad feelings about the whole Covid shit – she is a physical therapist– people not taking things seriously – outlook not good…
Stats/Video :

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : clear and relatively windless. some size down by creeps – tomahawk closeouts -the dox were very user friendly – amazing how it can be so violent up on the north end and down by the dox – okay waves for a nine year old. R and M and B in the mix – managed some nice little clean boatdox lines…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : It was clear but there was an onshore wind (slight) and lots of chop in the water. waves were just a muddled – jumbled muddy crumbly mess. I started at dox got one but it was weak. paddled over to the creek and finally settled into a rhythm – there would be a close to shore right – that stayed open if you popped up quick enough. it was challenging – but in a fun way.
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Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Clear and windless. Clean approaching complete glass conditions. more or less sections and pockets and peaks from the north end to just about the creek. In the Joy Division Coffee Shop lot I saw MS – it was full up at 645 am. Parked in front of the ace hardware behind the lot. At Crespi there was a CCC – so I stuck and waited at the TB – little clean rights would come through- very nice. I wish I was surfing a little better because I would have made more of the waves – but I was a little behind my game both in the wave selection and pop up division- but great sesh
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