Month: March 2019

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 84 AL
Notes : Cleanish sunny wand windless. Peaks from north to south end working-ish. I picked the right in front of the A lot pumphouse. Odle in the lineup with his SUP. Managed some here and theres. Took off on a sizable wave and managed to hang on somehow for a reform – no small feat on the shorter board so I chalked that up as an improvement. Last wave best wave- foamy all white face – in control and made two sections. tina’s birthday so we went to US and were impressed then to Lolinda for a great meal…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 84 AL
Notes : Clean sunny and windless. Crowded with a right at Taco bell. My nemesis BB however in thelineup- the anti stoke king. I went there anyway – he was way further on the inside so I managed to stay far out of his bad vibe bully orbit. I managed some here and theres but  was just not on it like I could have been – may have been the crowd more than any other factor
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ?
Board : 84 al
Notes : Again  clear and sunny at dawn, windless , clean. A lot some dumpy and lumpy action. Again nothing but frustration – nothing but paddle and muss. also a surprising number of waves where I went OVER THE FALLS. why? that almost never happens to me, was I misjudging the wave or not nailing a steepish corner take off. maybe its all the boards fault? Finally half way through the sesh something came through – shoulder high or so- straight down the line making speed and distance. Far away i could see a kook blindly lining up and I screamed as he was paddling – the second scream he heard and aborted just in time.  A great ride – a different kind of surfing – I feel I’m USING more of my body – my arms feel much more  a part of the game and my upped body – not just the feet. rest of sesh =nada.
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ?
Board : 84 AL
Notes : REDEMPTION WAVE DEPT. Clear and windless – cleanish. Went in at “middles” but it was just frustration with the new board. At one point I had a beautiful open faced right I was SURE I was in – but I wasn’t I was more or less ON TOP of the wave and it slipped through my fingers. Frustratio amplified. At this point I was all the way down by Taco Bell. Finally, something lined up – SOLID- I dug in til I was sure I was in which made for a slap dash and kooky pop up. However , I was in, and the wave was just really starting- I got up high right away – trimmed a bit – then dove – real fast- down the face then back up and repeasted the sequence. Best wave yet on the new board? I got out. one hour and a half and one solid wave – number of folks said something to me in parking lot about the wave and I had to say — it was the only one of the sesh- they call it redemption wave
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : hell getting out in the low tide – the rocks are a real issue. clean sunny no wind – some stuff at the dox. again i took and fielded and s curved a nice right at the dox  – into the rocky danger zone. good waves for just me daryl SUP mark SUP and Ray … can’t complain
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 84 al
Notes : clean – no wind – clear sunny stuff at boast dox but i couldn’t connect- not the board just me- oddly enuf best wave was TWO rights at the dox – straight into the rocky danger zone…
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