Location : B
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Beautiful bright crisp blue sky day to b- town with tina and Delia. some size and chop in the water. plus hella crowded with soft top jockeys. I went to the groin and it was a sizable left- the wave was weird kind of crumbly barreling thing – it was all about positioning. I got two waves. the first one was a nail biter – I really had to stay on the nose to avoid being white watered bt the crumbly lip- managed to stay on top of it. very heavy current also – along with high tide. got out after an hour. that one wave was worth it…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions