Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **?
Performance : **?
Board : 95
Notes : It was giant on the North End. Heap ing mounds of closeout whitewater. But the dox looked manageable and fun. I paddled out and within 15 minutes caught a great open faced meandering right. I actually stumbled on the takeoff – held on- then got up and had a great lengthy and meaty ride. but that was it. paddling back out it seemed to GROW AND GROW by the minute. some 20 minutes later I didn’t really know where to sit. close to the dox pod? midway and the outside? switch over to the right?? then a set would loom and it was paddle like crazy to get over a looming closeout monster. I just wanted an exit strategy. every wave I t5hought had a make able corner turned into an “abort!! abort!! close out!! close out!!” I took off finally on a right I thought would hold- there was a nice face but I couldn’t maintain the thrust on my board and catapulted into curl and got worked. I went in – thankful that I survived. in the parking lot o commiserated with S who tried to paddle down and exit by Taco Bell (she was afraid of hitting the dox rocks because of the huge tide) she got worked really bad but made it out – said “I thought it was over ”
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions