Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Going with the rare LINDA MAR 4X4!! Clean and clear and clean- and a little bit of size. the north end looked mackin. big and scary to my eyes. the A lot was half full at 645 am and the B lot was basically FULL!! I paddled out by walking right near the dox – hugging the coast- basically was able to walk in to the Line up – then just paddled over to the peak. if there is size and the tide is right that is always a better way to get out if there is a crowd. I quickly decided to hang a little outside and north of the pod. waiting for the off set wave to swing WIDE. it paid off. I was in position for glassy left after left – performing numerous “hood ornaments”. at one point my left contact popped out and fell on my cheek after a ride. I put it on my left index finger and paddled back out before the next set arrived with my right hand. I made it past the break point – steadied my hand and got the contact back in my eye. thank god. no long paddle and walk back to the car. a great sash. surfed so well that even though there was a crowd – I didn’t really notice it…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions