Day: April 21, 2019

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 84 AL
Notes : First 5 of the year. Got to SC 1 hour after low tide -perfect timing. Checked out Privates first and it was nice but slightly weak and soft. Went down to Capitola  and was tempted  for there was a small glassy peak . However there were too many on it – and to boot it seemed like about 4 of the surfers were good long boarders – so they got everything coming through. I decided to go back up to Privates because there had been only one person in the water. When I arrived back  a perfect set rolled in and I knew to suit up ASAP. It was waist to shoulder /head high glass. No wind – except an occasional offshore breeze. Blue sky. Two women came in the water – both kind of beginners. For an hour we had the peak to ourselves and I got each set wave that came through. We all kind of took whatever we wanted. Surfed well on the board – got some nice S curves in on some of the long long outside waves that were big enough that you could keep going down the line if you knew went to cut back and then hit the reform. It was a classic California day. Crystal , clear green water – the jutting cliffs – soaring birds in the sky and lazy seals floating on the water. Easter. Kept thinking of that magazine store on the lower east side – down the block from Sounds records- summer of 1983. I would buy Surfer magazine there and read it on the F train back to Queens. Just ogle those Pictures of the perfect waves in sunny California. Were those waves that perfect? The scenery that jaw dropping? Here it was – all these years later. It was real and now it was part of my routine …
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